The “fresh” in the title of this 2002 cookbook is a major clue to the recipes (see the last paragraphs for comments on the “fast” part). This is not a quick-n-easy-use-frozen-or-canned cookbook. It is a cookbook for people who like to cook, who like to wash and peel and chop, yet who are not interested in spending hours in the kitchen crafting elaborate dishes from many ingredients. The dishes are simple yet elegant, deceptively easy to make if you don’t mind cutting a few things up. The use of fresh ingredients means we get the benefit of full yet often subtle flavors, attractive and tasty enough to serve to guests.

The author is not a full-time vegan. But don’t let that keep you away. She is a “leading food editor in the United Kingdom”, according to the introduction, which means she brings a slightly different approach to dishes than we typically see in the U.S. The U.K. has a long tradition of vegetarian cooking, spawned by the many cultures that have emigrated there. For me, many of the dishes have an “English” edge. We don’t see beans on toast here but perhaps that one is just too obvious.

The book was originally published in the U.K. under another title. This version uses American measurements so don’t worry about converting. However, for those who are metrically inclined there is a conversion chart.

Cumin and Coriander Spinach on Garlic Mashed Potatoes

This is “fine cooking”, meaning every ingredient counts. Spices are used to highlight the natural flavors of fresh vegetables and grains, which is how you’d hope fine chefs cook. Grant does not shy away from “home cooking”, though. One dish, Warm Cumin and Coriander Spinach on Garlic Mashed Potatoes, is “comfort food in a bowl”, according to Grant, and she’s right. While the recipe calls for dry-frying cumin and coriander seeds and mashing fresh garlic with olive oil (and then blending the oil into the potatoes), which means quite a bit of activity in the kitchen, the resulting dish is deeply satisfying in an earthy way.

So what’s in it? The recipes are divided into “starters”, “snacks and light meals”, “sandwiches”, “main courses”, and “desserts”. No breakfasts here.  A few examples from the starters section: Roasted Baby Zucchini, Olives with Fresh Rosemary and Orange, Vegetable Chips, Melon with Red Wine and Mint Sauce, Corn, Coconut, LIme and Basil Soup.  This section also includes a recipe for a basic vegetable stock.

Ingredients for Griddled Red Onion Slices with Couscous

The light meals section calls on many cultures, from Moroccan Spiced Couscous with Fruit to Roast Vine Tomatoes and Pasta, and A Very Modern Waldorf Salad.  There are only four sandwiches. Main courses also run the gamut of different tastes, including Thai Noodles with Chili and Lemon Grass Dressing, Vegan Sushi with Avocado and Cucumber, Red Cabbage with Sake on Rice Noodles, Spring Vegetables with Saffron Basmati Rice. My mouth waters when I just read the titles.

Following the recipes is a short menu section, offering selections for supper parties, sunday lunch, romantic meal for two, and more.

Griddled Red Onions on Couscous

A bit about the organization and information for each recipe:

Each recipe is on its own page. Estimated preparation time and cooking time is included, as well as nutritional information (calories, protein, fat, vitamins). My experience with preparing a few of these dishes tells me that the preparation time is a little on the hopeful side, often ignoring the time it takes to prepare the ingredients for cooking. The cooking time is also on the short side in some instances, as it tends to count the time it takes to simmer, for example, without counting the time it took to bring a mixture to the boil and then reduce to that simmer.  I’d recommend allocating more time than is estimated.

Fresh it most definitely is. “Fast” is a relative term. You won’t spend hours cooking these dishes but they are not generally ten-minute wonders either. The recipes tend to call for the cook’s attention. You can’t throw a few things in a pot and wander off to wait until it’s done.

This book fills a gap in the ever-increasing number of options for vegan cooks. Aimed at persons who appreciate good food and want to take the care to make them, it asks a little of the cook but not too much. I found these recipes a delight to make and well worth the little trouble involved.

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Sections: Vegan Food
Topics: cookbook review, Food, Vegan